Carpentry Complete (Taunton's Complete) by Engel Andy

Author:Engel, Andy [Engel, Andy]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Taunton Press
Published: 2012-04-18T00:00:00+00:00

Peel away the backing to expose the adhesive, but only an amount you can work with.

TRADE SECRET

Remember these two things about flashing (they apply also to building paper, housewrap, siding, and roofing): Upper layers lap lower layers, and side joints—such as a joint in tar paper or housewrap or where siding overlaps flashing along a door or window—need to lap by at least 4 in. (more is better).

DETAILING THE CORNERS

Detailing the lower corners is the trickiest part of flashing the sills. You need to get some sort of waterproof material to conform to three planes at once: the jack stud, the rough sill, and the sheathing. This can be done with standard adhesive membrane or with commercial materials made for this purpose (see “Manufactured Alternatives”).

To use adhesive membrane, cut a piece about 4 in. by 12 in., and fold it in half. Make two diagonal cuts, each starting about 1 in. from either side of center and extending toward the corners, leaving about 1 1/2 in. of material in the center. When opened up, you'll have a bow-tie shape.

Remove the release paper from one half of the bow tie, and adhere it to the rough sill and the face of the jack stud, with the narrow part of the bow tie at the corner. Rub the adhered portion of the bow tie so it's well secured.

Remove the remaining release paper and adhere the rest of the bow tie to the face of the wall, keeping tension on it as you go, so it lies relatively smooth. It will crinkle up some, but don't worry about that.

Bow ties don't extend very far up the jack stud, so I lap them with a 6-in.-wide piece of membrane. In high-wind areas, such as along the coast, I'd extend this piece the entire height of the jack stud.

1 Begin making a bow tie by folding a 4-in. by 12.-in. piece of membrane in half.

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